In his opinion, his work and KarlLagerfeld and John Galliano do not have differently what

Visual Chief Sales Officer

Let all becomes the more attractive construction designer in Louis Vuitton in May in London Bunde street start Hsintien, designer PeterMarino lets all inside and outside bathe under the light, the LED lamp makes the visual effect which for the glass stave fluctuates infinitely. In manufactures “the handbag” specially on, each model of handbag takes to bring with in the electronic transmission back and forth revolves, looks like looks like in the sushi shop the rotary abutment.　

“I want to become entrust with the handbag person or household who refuses to move and bargains for unreasonably high compensation when the land is requisitioned for a construction project the first person.”Marino said that “before demonstrated that promotes handbag's method to be bored, I must let all become more amusing!”Sounds to stem from mouth of really likely the Chief Sales Officer. Has a look at Louis Vuitton these circulars “the space ship type” jewelry counter design, but also has the suitcase nail's on wall exhibition way, since will have reviewed this brand many years to Paris, London, Beijing, Shanghai and even from all over the world the shop outward appearance innovates - - on the Xiangxielishe main road's Vuitton special shop to have 3000-5000 people of passenger capacity - - you to discover every day, the shop designer will be playing the Chief Sales Officer role frequently actually.　

This Chief Sales Officer does not need to work out the sales program, also does not need to be responsible for each season the assortment display, but he must build one for the brand attractively to demonstrate Taiwan, fills the charm the palace. In the economical not booming time, this kind silent and the powerful sales promotion way appears more important. Constructed office spg3 responsible DavidKepron saying:“the customer pays great attention the visual marketing. Perhaps they do not want in innovation aspect flower 1000 ten thousand US dollars, but when they saw you can spend are not many are actually increased the sales volume time, is happy. Very satirizes is?”　　

Before global economic decline, ErmenegildoZegna decided that invites Peter Marino is it designs a set of global shop general style plan, and, in it soon opens Tokyo sleeps, Hsintien and so on Dubai, Hong Kong to use newly. This plan not, because the sales digit falls halts. In fact, the Zegna New York Flagship Shop which renovates comprehensively from 2009, to this year Hsintien which begins in Hong Kong and Shanghai, this historical glorious Italy men's clothing brand is with a new look, wins the retail trade to renovate the race champion. “we saw the change from the social environment and the customer consumption habit,” brand vivid inspector general Anna Zegna said that “they request the product which, the substantive service resourcess are well used, as well as genuine attractive shop design.”Refers to Zegna in the shop design change, she said: “this is an earthquake's transformation. First time, our shop has become brand omni-directional speaking on another's behalf throughout history.

Peter transmits the tertiary brand strategy through three independent visual ways, each has its appropriation space, is transmitting the spirit which is in sole possession of respectively. Although looks like simply, but the shop design and the structure are quite in fact complex.”In order to achieve this goal, the Marino team utilized 80 many kinds of different materials to repair the Zegna New York Shop. Especially what make Anna Zegna satisfied is New York Flagship Shop that open style gate face: “people, in the Fifth Avenue distant place can see inside the shop.”　　

Certainly, wants for the brand to come to change external appearances only, the sufficient budget is essential, but this point in often becomes the biggest difficult problem in the last few years. “many companies cut the budget.”New York Lippincott marketing strategy elements of consultation Chief Creative Officer Randall Stone said that “the present, each people in the slowing down step, can see until them the safe signal - - first is the fund and the credit relaxation, next is the consumer confidence return.”Did not worry business visits Marino also sighed: “two years ago, each national some people asked me saying:`wants to build the place hotel? 'I said: `is natural. 'but, we in Moroccan, Croatia, Dubai and Caribbean Sea's hotel project suspended.”　　

What is unexpected, the designer who likes attempting the new thing speaking of one, sometimes the budget will reduce not is the misdemeanor - - will instead bring the bigger display space. “the budget has tailed off, we possibly use some new sharp artist's work.”Marino said.

From Italy to China　

Lets project contractor who the design devises into the reality up to present, in 2010 list in a Shanghai place start luxury goods brand Hsintien quantity already very considerable. China's overseas brand retail trade is since long leads by the luxury goods, each big brand is also self-evident to this market's confidence. Is frequent Hsintien open for business, how many strange finishing materials the global unified repair design idea - - to have and the half-finished product, how many have custom-made specially demonstration person Taiwan must come from the European aerial transport?

Marni found one kind to be more economical, also more effective repair channel. Its brand founder concurrently designer Ms. Consuelo Castiglioni for many years has constructed the office with London's Sybarite to cooperate closely, before also looks like many other brands to be the same, mainly from Italian aerial transport shop exhibit to the world. But from 2004, headquarters is located in Shanghai's organization to take over control the Marni shop repair operation matters concerned.　

“our work is realizes the brand design conception.”Sooza designed work room founder SusanHerffernan to say. Marni is one of her big customers, is also the work room earliest customer, at present Marni person Taiwan which, the clothes rack, the illumination and each kind of ornament uses in the global shop manufactures by Sooza. In addition, this family work room's customer also includes AlbertaFerretti, Moncler, Philosophy, Stefanel and so on.　　

Before organizing the work room, Herffernan does the furniture import and export business in China. She discovered that Europe's furniture price high, delivers slowly, China's manufacturer price low, delivers quickly, although the quality is ordinary, but also has the promotion space. Her work room is establishes in this foundation: “an order form needs two months in Italy the deliveries, so long as we a half month can complete.”

If the apparel industry has already realized the globalized production, then Herffernan is attempting lets the luxury goods brand also put theirs shop to this world big factory. Looks like in her, Shanghai's geographical position hold superiority, with places the such as Europe, Americas, Japan distances is quite moderate, it may be said that is “the world center”. China's factory produces all kinds of thing, but majority is not willing to manufacture the request to be special, craft complex, man-hour long, quantity of delivery small product. In order to solve this problem, Soozar peripheral has invested three Cooperative workshops in Shanghai, defers to specially requests to carry on the processing production specially, is responsible for softy crafts and so on sofa, a person in charge Taiwan manufacture, but also some are responsible for the stainless steel craft - - entire technical process usually conclude in the spatial biggest stainless steel mill completes. Compares produces in Europe, Sooza reduced the labor cost and the time cost, but raw material cost also has the drop space. “from the very beginning, we use all materials are outside purchase. Now we also attempt let the customer come China, looks that also has the same thing and the service in here.”Herffernan said.　

Some brands have their complete set design department, can thus positive control own image, LouisVuitton be the best example. Its exclusive Construction division staff average age only then 32 years old, under the DavidMcNulty leadership, with the world's the architect like Qingmu pure, Kengo Kuma, Peter Marino, Philippe Barthélémy, Syvia Grino, Aurelio Clementi and do Kumiko to cooperate, while maintains the brand symbolizes and fixed structural element pours into the bright individual style. No matter is responsible for the brand which for oneself designs, speaking of entrusts the office to carry on the design the brand, similar Sooza this kind of contractors are essential. Said with the Herffernan words that they are “between the European and Chinese's junction”.　　

“these customers are not the ordinary customer.”Herffernan said that “they are harsh, to own product extreme arrogant, is much higher to the quality request. It is not all suppliers can understand this point.”Sooza is the customer has custom-made the special clothes rack, take the brand exclusive model stature as prototype making person Taiwan, as well as in the shop big arrives at the sofa, slightly to vase's each kind of thing. Because each project must use 6-7 different materials at least, goods often back and forth go through many places between several factories, but the work room responsibility is “lets each factory understand that this is any thing”. Middle five year wearing, she has learned a thought custom: “we forever are wrong, even if is actually. Perhaps the factory and the customer can write the fluent English, but they are still are using the second language conversation. We must help them to understand each other.”　　

The majority of luxury goods brand opens the exclusive agency in the Henglong square. Louis in Vuitton shop's each exhibition imports from Italy and France; Fendi shop's person Taiwan is the entire import, in addition approximately some 50% proportion's goods produce the purchase in China; Prada and Fendi are the same, imported product quantity also about 50%. Marni already realized the shop exhibition “China to make”, through this kind of effective goods supply channel, the brand Hsintien which opened in Hangzhou and Shenzhen has not only obtained the anticipated visual effect, but also because of simplified the transportation process but environmental protection. But Soozar had received a Chinese customer for the first time recently, that seeks Erdos which the image transforms. “once knew that oneself has the improvement space, they should accept the change.”Herffernan appraises these powerful domestic product brand like this.

Chang Guangchang is how new

Let becomes luxuriously more luxurious artist Peter Marino believed that wants to do some to have the fresh idea thing is really at present too difficult. “you drew the schematic diagram, result others told you quite a while: the `Hong Kong had the family dining room to do two years ago. '” he most self-satisfied work is the Chanel Tokyo Yinzuo Flagship Shop. In the middle of this project, he found one kind of new glass curtain wall - - Austria Glass works to consume the entire 18 months only then to develop successfully this kind of glass. “stands outside the building, you looked that obtains movie which on the glass curtain wall broadcasts, inside arrives, you can toward the outside look into the distance from a high place through the glass. I have been too arrogant, you may engrave these words on mine epitaph: He has invented one kind of new glass.”Marino said.　　

In order to let the customer feel that Chang Guangchang is new, the brand the new product which will promote along with each quarter will change in the shop the decoration and the exhibition. With artist's cooperation is the action which the expenditure soaring actually takes the easy way. Xiangxielishe main road main office may see James Turrell in Louis the Vuitton the decorative lighting sculpture, the Tim White-Sobieski phantom work, but may also ride Olafur the Eliasson design the elevator. Has two person group Gilbert & Goerge, Jeff Koons, Jean-Michel Basquiat, Damien Hirst, Michael Landy as well as Takashi Murakami et al. in this brand London Shop works. “is luxuriously expresses the feeling and the fervor way with art.”President Louis Vuitton and chief executive YvesCarcelle said that “every other two week we carefully will inspect in the shop all installment artware.”　　

The Marino design concept, is “constructs one to let the people be willing the store which kills time in inside”. “if some person of good intentions walked, you must let them play happily. After all, the shopping if is not one interesting, attractive, the out of the ordinary experience, why do you go to the shopping?”He said.　　

In his opinion, his work and KarlLagerfeld and John Galliano do not have differently what. “I always attend their fashionable clothing release conference. They are the great artists, each Xiu for me likely is the art exhibition begins resembles. I like looking that very much how Pat McGrath does put on make-up, how Guido does Pasquale give the girls to make the hair. Certainly, had a look at the abundant breast fat buttocks is also my demand.”He said. Is precisely because has the thorough understanding to the fashionable clothing, he will only then use the Dior symbolic gray to make the main key, renovated for its Mongolian Field Main road Flagship Shop has used 56 kind of aperiodic the ash, only then builds Chanel No.5 on the Rodey Europe main road with the white glass and the black steel bar the perfume packing box.

(this article originates: Bund pictorial)
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